N8's "Biggest Wave"

Caught my "biggest wave" yesterday. I don't always go out to the lineup, because Oregon has some scary ass Rip's and I am still, quite honestly, scared of being dragged out to sea. So for me, it depends on the spot and the conditions. I went out to the lineup yesterday, really because the shorebreak sucked.
It was still big for me and I was a little freaked. I took the Rip out on the south wall. Almost immediately, I catch about a 7' wave. As I push my nose in, realizing I am committed, I am scared shitless and actually thought I would just ride it in on my stomach, but as I dropped, I got brave, screamed in my head "STAND UP!". All the sudden I was flyin down the face of this huge, powerful wave. I shot out in front, and managed to pull a big toeside turn at the bottom and now I am flyin along the the curl of the wave, looking straight into its face, definitely over my head. My heart is pounding out of my chest! DEEP breath!.... I get a nice glassy hand drag and ride it all the way to the beach.

What a rush!