N8's "Biggest Wave"

Caught my "biggest wave" yesterday. I don't always go out to the lineup, because Oregon has some scary ass Rip's and I am still, quite honestly, scared of being dragged out to sea. So for me, it depends on the spot and the conditions. I went out to the lineup yesterday, really because the shorebreak sucked.
It was still big for me and I was a little freaked. I took the Rip out on the south wall. Almost immediately, I catch about a 7' wave. As I push my nose in, realizing I am committed, I am scared shitless and actually thought I would just ride it in on my stomach, but as I dropped, I got brave, screamed in my head "STAND UP!". All the sudden I was flyin down the face of this huge, powerful wave. I shot out in front, and managed to pull a big toeside turn at the bottom and now I am flyin along the the curl of the wave, looking straight into its face, definitely over my head. My heart is pounding out of my chest! DEEP breath!.... I get a nice glassy hand drag and ride it all the way to the beach.

What a rush!

Reach the Beach!

Please help me raise money for the American Lung Association in memory of my grandmother Betty Vaughan. Yes, she is so beautiful sitting gracefully with her cigarette and her desinger clothes, but little did she know there was a price to pay. At the young age of 61 she lost her battle with Lung Cancer.

I will be participating in the Reach the Beach fundraising campaign and will be cycling 80 miles from Newberg to Pacific City. You can help me by making a donation to my ride and the American Lung Association and help raise money to save lives by improving lung health and preventing lung disease.

Please click the link below to access my web page and make a donation

http://action.lungusa.org/site/TR/BikeTrek/ALAMP_Mountain_Pacific?px=4177787&pg=personal&fr_id=1630

Thanks!
Victoria